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Monterey Jack: California's Own Parmigiano

Author: photograph by Laurie Smith
During World War II, when imported parmesan cheese was scarce, California Italians turned instead to Monterey jack, developed in Monterey in the mid-19th century. Making it their own, Italian-Americans coated it with cocoa, pepper, and olive oil, and aged it for at least nine months. The result is a hard, nutty cheese that closely resembles its Italian cousin. Leo Rossi at Iacopi's meat market in North Beach cures his Sonoma-made jack with sherry, garlic, thyme, cracked pepper, and cocoa. To order, call 415/421-0757.

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